“What exactly is a Tsugaru stove train?” Funny enough, that’s what our concierge asked that morning when we told him where we were trying to go.
Picture a 90-year-old wooden carriage, a cast-iron stove glowing in the middle of the aisle, dried squid charring over the coals, and snow — endless, soundless snow — sliding past the windows; that’s the Tsugaru Stove Train, and honestly? I’m not sure I fully knew what I was signing up for either.
The little station waiting room was almost too cute to be real. It had that make-believe quality, like a film set, except it wasn’t. It was just an old-style station, lovingly preserved and somehow still running perfectly. That’s Japan for you.
Minutes later, the woman manning the snack stall, who, it turned out, was also the ticket seller, unlocked the gate to the platform. Up the stairs we went, where an orange train and two conductors stood waiting for us.
I was instantly, completely transported to another era. That alone would’ve been enough of a highlight, but I was too busy freezing — and quietly buzzing — because I knew the best part was still waiting for us inside: the famous stove and the squid that would be cooked on top of it.
We settled in by the window, one seat away from the stove in the middle of the carriage, leaving the cosiest spot for a young family. People drifted on board in absolutely no rush whatsoever. Then again, nothing in Aomori feels rushed.
The woman with the cart came through, and we ordered the biggest grilled squid she had. Soon after, a conductor passed by selling sake. Before long, the entire carriage smelled of freshly grilled squid, and it was pretty tantalising.
The sake came in little cups that, sadly, couldn’t be warmed. For some reason, I’d assumed they’d heat it for us, which in hindsight would have been very nice. (Lesson logged for next time.)
A Tiny Tip on the Tsugaru Stove Train
Here’s the thing nobody warns you about: you have to eat the squid fast. I massively overordered, and dried squid is a serious jaw workout. By the last few pieces, I was chewing for my life. So take it from me: order one squid, get the sake, sip while they grill, and snack your way slowly through the ride, getting gently tipsier and progressively happier as the snow rolls by.
The ride itself was only about twenty minutes before we hopped off at a tiny, snow-buried town to wait for the train back. I didn’t mind one bit; the whole thing was a joy from start to finish.
To this day, the Tsugaru Stove Train is one of my favourite memories from Aomori. Second only to the Aomori Apple Onsen, of course.
Info: The train runs from Dec 1 to Mar 31, on the Goshogawara–Nakasato route, where the squid is around ¥700 and sake is ¥500; arrive early for a stove seat.
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